“Duraflame”
NEW BOULDERING AREA NEAR GIANT CITY, DOWNLOAD MINI GUIDE BELOW
NewBoulderingArea
TRENCH WARFARE V4 @ One Horse Gap, The Domes, Late March 2010
F.A. Tim Wilocki V4 Start low on pinchy pocket (left) and pocket crimp (right). Move up to pocket with perfect thumb catch hole. Ride Pockets straight up to to buckets for a fun top out. Don't forget your heel !?! 3 star, good run with cool slopey pockets. good movement. Don't fall into that damn trench !!!
THE COCKI TORPEDO V7 @ One Horse Gap, The Domes, Late March 2010
F.A. Tim Wilocki. Discovered by Bob Tipton. Starts real low on bad side pull crimp crap(left) and small sloper(right). Move to sloper shelf and work your way up and right to hard top out in toilet. going to the right of water groove is off for the top out. Flows GREAT !! 4 STARS !! Super Fun !!
THE FLYING DEAD V7ish @ The Graveyard, Gravewall, Early November 2009
F.A. David Quinney. It is the line two problems to the left of bug eyes. It is problem number three that is a project in the guide book. Starts on two okay holds with bigger feet, then a dyno all the way out the roof to the jug. Then top out straight up.
CANDY WITH RAZOR BLADES V1 @ The Graveyard, 45 Degree Wall, Late October 2009
F.A. David Graff. Ten feet right of R.I.P. Found this three star on a great day of climbing on September 29, 2009. Its a fun line that sit starts in two low big crimps. A good long move out to a jug rail and then another big move to a flat jug. Then its a kinda tall topout with not too great of a landing. Its a fun line that goes at V1. And easy problem, but quality movement. F.A. David Graff
GOOD AWKWARD (aka: Unexpected Jungle Bush) V3/4 @ The Roost, between Oriole and Screaming Eagle boulders, Late November 2009
F.A. Greg Shields. On the way to Screaming Eagle coming from the Oriole boulder, look for short, squat boulder with cool "scales" on your right. Begin with left undercling and right crimp on "scale" feature. Pop to sloper and continue up to interesting topout. Pretty fun...perhaps 2 stars. In the V3 range, maybe V4. Props to Adam for cleaning!
BLACK FRIDAY V3 @ The Roost, Oriole Boulder, Saturday November 28 2009
F.A. Greg Shields. Start Left of Cold Turkey. L hand shallow 2 finger pocket, R hand sloper, top out straight above through slopers. ...fun movement, good rock. the start is a little fingery, to be sure. I'd say v3, but it is friction dependent, & I have no consensus, as it has just recently gone up. 3 stars. Btw, there's still yet another very do-able project on this boulder in between Black Friday & the Oriole. If that one goes down the tally is 5 new problems developed on this boulder this season!
COLD TURKEY V2 @ The Roost, Oriole Boulder, Late November 2009
F.A. Greg Shields. Just right of the short, blunt arete. Start R hand in undercling, move L hand to sloper & topout. Lowball, but good movement & good rock. Topout variations exist. 3 stars. ...So far I've put in 3 sessions cleaning this boulder, & some really appealling stone has been uncovered. This is one of the better warm-ups that have gone. Enjoy!
ANTHILL V0 @ The Roost, Oriole Boulder, Late November 2009
F.A. Greg Shields. Climb the short, blunt arete by its right side. v0, 1 star.
ANTHILL LEFT V0- @ The Roost, Oriole Boulder, Late November 2009
F.A. Greg Shields. Climb the short, blunt arete by its left side. v0-
NAME COMMING SOON... V6ish @ The Roost, Cooker’s Cave, Mid November
F.A. Chris Lesch. Climb straight up from the start of Harvest Swing.
DUTCH QUEBEC CONNECTION V7ish @ The Roost, The Eiger, Early November 2009
Hi, together with Jean-Marc Grenier, we did a nice traverse on the Eiger (The Roost). It was a very nice problem and on good dry rock even after a week of rain. As it is not in the topo, it might be new. Here it is: Sitstart on a rock left of Dave's arrete on two pinches. Traverse left along good holds to obvious sloper band and continue along this until you reach the crack. It ends on the good holds in the crack. The crack at the end is wet, dirty, loose and does not at to the problem, but the 30 feet traverse is awesome! It might be a V7 or so. If you need a name, why not: Dutch Quebec Connection. Jean Marc is from Quebec and I am from the Netherlands. We had a great weekend early November in Jackson Falls! Have fun! Kind regards, Ton
HARVEST SWING V5 @ The Roost, Cookers Cave, Monday September 28, 2009
F.A. Matt Bliss, along with Chris Lesch, Greg Echelmeier, Ryan Gorman and Gabe Meadows- Located on the left side of Cookers Cave, 8ft. left of the Seam Project. Start on obvious jug feature, head up and left to edges at lip. Keep heading left (big swing) to rock-over move to shelf. Very classic. By the time you read this a slightly harder direct variation should be completed, topping out straight above the starting area V6ish.
YOUNG THUGZ IN THE HOOD V8 @ Jackson Falls near Lovely Arete Wed, Jul 22, 2009
F.A. Devin Doyle- Its on the back side of the lovely tower wall. Its maybe 10 or 15 degrees overhanging and starts on two bad crimp underclings at nipple height or so and and numerous bad feet, you pull onto the wall and shoot up right hand to a big juggy pocket. It would make sense to just drop off from the pocket jug but if you really wanted you could traverse right on a huge juggy rail, I traversed over but it adds no difficulty to the problem and doesnt really go anywhere. Its not super aesthetic or pretty, just cool if you want one hard move, I say one star depending on the scale range. Its 1-move so its hard to grade but I'd guess V7 maybe harder.
LAST CHANCE V4? @ Giant City, Standtable Mon, 29 Jun 2009
F.A. Colin Doherty- Giant City - Devil's Standtable Area Continue past Jah boulder, past Gill Wall. Round 90 degree cliff-line bend to the left, continue approx 25 yds, problem looms uphill to the left. Awesome side-pull/pinch (left hand) and finger-tip edge (right hand) to throw to overhanging lip. Bad landing, cool rock formation and movement, would guess V4 range...3 stars!